Ammonia vs. Ethanolamine: Which Should You Choose
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Many “natural” hair dye brands proudly display the phrase “Ammonia-free” to attract customers, giving the impression that ammonia is something to avoid in hair dye. But is it really necessary to steer clear of ammonia? Let’s explore the facts.

Why Is Ammonia Used in Hair Dye?

Ammonia plays a critical role in hair dyeing by opening up the hair cuticles, allowing the dye to penetrate deeply into the hair shaft. This process is essential for achieving permanent color, especially for covering stubborn grays. However, because ammonia is corrosive, it can damage the hair.

In any permanent hair dye, a cuticle-opening agent must be used to ensure that the color adheres and lasts. Unfortunately, this means that some form of chemical—often ammonia—is necessary to make the dye permanent.

Is Ammonia Harmful?

While ammonia can damage hair during the dyeing process, its health risks are mostly limited to temporary irritation. Exposure to ammonia can cause:

  •  Irritation to the eyes, nose, and throat
  •  Breathing difficulties or chest discomfort
  •  Skin burns or blisters in severe cases

There’s no conclusive evidence that ammonia increases cancer risks or disrupts hormones, but its impact on hair health is well-documented.

What Does “Ammonia-Free” Hair Dye Mean?

If a hair dye brand promotes its product as “ammonia-free,” it’s essential to first check if it’s a permanent hair dye. Semi-permanent or demi-permanent dyes don’t require ammonia because they only coat the hair without penetrating the cuticles. This makes their labeling somewhat misleading, like calling a glass product “plastic-free.”

How Do Ammonia-Free Permanent Dyes Work?

In permanent hair colors that claim to be “ammonia-free,” another chemical must be used to perform the same function—typically, ethanolamine.

What Is Ethanolamine?

Ethanolamine is also a corrosive chemical, designed to open up the hair cuticles just like ammonia. It has a similar, though less intense, smell. However, ethanolamine comes with its own set of concerns.

Is Ethanolamine Safer Than Ammonia?

Ethanolamine is a newer chemical, and its long-term health effects haven’t been as thoroughly studied as ammonia’s. However, some research suggests that ethanolamine could increase the risk of birth defects, which is a serious concern for pregnant women or those planning to become pregnant.

While ammonia hasn’t been shown to cause cancer or disrupt hormones, ethanolamine’s safety is still uncertain. The Environmental Working Group (EWG) rates ethanolamine between 5 and 6 for toxicity, slightly worse than ammonia’s 4 to 6 rating.

Does Ammonia or Ethanolamine Cause More Hair Damage?

Surprisingly, ethanolamine can cause significantly more hair damage than ammonia—up to 85% more in extreme cases. It’s also associated with increased hair loss. Even though ammonia has a more pungent odor, it isn’t necessarily more corrosive than ethanolamine.

For an unbiased opinion, you may want to consult a professional hairstylist who has experience using both types of dyes. Be sure they aren’t affiliated with any specific brand to ensure their opinion is truly objective.

The “Natural” Label: Is It Misleading?

Many ammonia-free hair color brands market themselves as organic or plant-based, often claiming to be natural or even certified organic. However, this can be misleading, as these products still contain corrosive chemicals like ethanolamine.

Final Thoughts

If you’re considering using a chemical hair dye, it’s essential to weigh the risks of each ingredient. Based on current evidence, ammonia-containing dyes might be the safer option compared to ethanolamine. Ethanolamine’s potential for increased hair damage and other health concerns make it something to avoid, especially if you’re pregnant.

For those looking to minimize hair damage and health risks, it’s always a good idea to consult a professional. Additionally, for a wide selection of high-quality hair care and hair color products, visit Sellerspree.com. Whether you’re looking for ammonia-based dyes, natural alternatives, or other hair care solutions, Sellerspree offers a range of products from trusted vendors to help you achieve beautiful, healthy hair.

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