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Hair coloring is the art of transforming the color of one’s hair. This can be done for various reasons, such as covering up gray hair, adopting a more fashionable or desirable shade, or restoring the natural hair color that may have been altered by hair treatments or sun exposure.
Each natural hair hue comprises four primary color pigments: black and brown, referred to as eumelanin, as well as red and yellow, known as pheomelanin. Hair color is characterized by both its level and tone. The level indicates the lightness or darkness of the hair, while the tone denotes its underlying hue, such as whether it appears “cool” or “warm.” Eumelanin pigments determine the hair’s level, while pheomelanin pigments influence its tone.
The four main types of haircolor products include permanent, demi-permanent, semi- permanent, and temporary.
Temporary Hair Colors:
They are commonly available as chalk, spray, or powder forms, which can be washed out after a single application.
Permanent Hair Colors:
It bring about a lasting change to the existing hair color, capable of both lightening and depositing color. These are usually combined with developers of 10, 20, 30, or 40 volumes. Permanent colors are predominantly used for covering gray hair.
Demi-Permanent Colors:
They are ammonia-free shades designed to gently penetrate just beneath the hair cuticle, offering a deposit-only option. They are usually mixed with a lower volume developer, typically 5 or 7 volumes. There are specific techniques for using demi-permanent colors for gray coverage. I believe that these colors are often overlooked in the realm of hair coloring, despite their versatility and the ability to make adjustments with each appointment.
Semi-Permanent Colors:
They do not require a developer and are ammonia-free. They are often called direct dyes because they remain on the hair’s surface. These colors are ideal for fashion shades and pastels. However, they cannot lighten hair or cover gray. Since semi-permanent colors do not mix with a developer and stay on the surface, they do not always adhere strictly to color theory. Manufacturers provide different guidelines regarding the base levels to use their shades on.
Lightener offers extensive coloring options due to its remarkable lifting abilities, which are nearly limitless. Techniques like open-air lightening and foil highlighting achieve varying levels of lift. When using foil, developers can lift far beyond their standard described “levels of lift.”
Lightener works by permanently altering hair color through the breakdown of color molecules and disulfide bonds. It lifts the natural or existing pigment, revealing different warmth tones at each level of lift. The underlying pigments exposed are yellow, gold, orange, and red. Understanding color theory helps in formulating glazes/toners to blend or tone down these hues.
Types Of Lighteners
There are several types of lighteners, including cream, oil, clay, powder, and ammonia-free variants, with cream and oil-based lighteners being preferred for on-scalp lightening processes. These formulations provide moisture and conditioning during the lightening process.
Clay lighteners are popular for balayage and open-air services because they can “crust,” creating a shell that helps the lightener inside retain moisture, leading to prolonged lifting power.
Ammonia-free lighteners are ideal for lifting hair that contains metallic dyes or is otherwise compromised, as they help avoid chemical breakage.
While lighteners are rooted in chemistry, they are also closely tied to color theory decisions. By combining color theory, personal color knowledge, and strategic decisions, we can create a roadmap to predict the outcome based on our starting point.
Using hair color to lighten hair offers the advantage of controlling the warmth that contributes to the final hue through proper formulation. Additionally, selecting the appropriate developer greatly influences the outcome.
Color Limitations
Color has its limitations in controlling underlying pigments, especially when lifting more than two levels from the existing color level. The ability to manage contributing warmth (red, orange, yellow) becomes less efficient in such cases. It’s important to note that color cannot transform a client’s hair from a level 4 to a cool level 9, regardless of the developer or formula used.
Lightener Advantages
Opting for lightener over color offers the advantage of achieving more levels of lift and provides a broader range of toning options. Vibrant shades like red, purple, or light ashy brown are achieved through prelightening and toning processes to create specific hues and undertones. It’s worth remembering that a “double-process” isn’t exclusive to blondes; any shade that aims for a true tone or absolute ash/neutral appearance requires prelightening to eliminate underlying pigments.
Developers
Hair developer, a cream or lotion containing hydrogen peroxide, is mixed with hair dye to lighten or color hair. It plays a crucial role in the coloring process by helping the dye penetrate the hair shaft, resulting in a more even color. Additionally, developer opens the hair cuticle, allowing the color pigments to deeply penetrate the hair fiber. Without developer, the dye cannot fully penetrate the hair, resulting in less vibrant and long-lasting color.
Developers are available in various strengths, typically indicated as percentages. The higher the percentage, the more potent the developer. For instance, 20 volume developer contains 6% hydrogen peroxide, while 30 volume developer contains 9% hydrogen peroxide. The choice of developer strength depends on the desired outcome:
1. 10 Volume Developers
Lifting hair level: Use 10 volume developer
10 volume developers contain 3% hydrogen peroxide. They are often referred to as no-lift developers because they provide only moderate lift to the hair cuticles, typically lifting by one level. This developer is ideal for coloring your hair a darker shade than your natural color. It is also commonly used in toners and glazes. Additionally, 10 volume developer is a suitable choice for those with fine hair.
2. 20 Volume Developers
20-volume developers contain 6% hydrogen peroxide. They are widely used in salons and are ideal for 100% gray coverage. When combined with permanent hair colors, they can lift hair by 1-2 levels. When used with bleach, they become a potent developer capable of providing 1–9 levels of lift. Additionally, these developers offer long-lasting color.
3. 30 Volume Developers
30-volume developers contain 9% hydrogen peroxide. They offer a lift of up to four levels and are ideal for individuals with thick hair. This strength is perfect for those looking to transition to a blonde or platinum blonde shade. It can be used with lightening cream, powder, or permanent hair color. However, it is recommended to avoid using this developer without professional guidance, as it contains high concentrations of peroxide and may cause damage if not used correctly.
4. 40 volume Developers
40-volume developers contain 12% hydrogen peroxide, lifting hair by at least 8 levels. This developer is not suitable for at-home use unless you are a professional, as it can cause serious damage to the scalp and hair. It is ideal for achieving a medium or dark blonde shade.
Bleach: Use 20 volume developer for lifting hair by 1-3 levels, and 30 volume developer for more significant lifts.
High lift color: Use 30 volume developer for lifting hair by up to 5 levels.
Root area: Use 20 volume developer unless the hair is very dark.
The typical mixing ratios are 1:1, 1:1.5, or 1:2 for an extra strong lightening effect. Once the hair is restored to its proper pH level, the cuticle closes, locking in the color for a permanent application.
Always choose a salon for hair coloring. It’s safer and much gentler on your hair compared to at-home coloring. Professional dye also tends to last longer. A professional hair stylist has the knowledge, experience, and training to achieve your desired results.
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